Enclos brings a new era for Sonoma dining
San Franciscans have long favored Healdsburg for Wine Country, but Enclos is a game-changer. Sonoma finally has a fine-dining spot of its own.
By Virginia Miller
Healdsburg has long been the favored Sonoma town square, packed with charm, shops and great food. Over the 24 years I’ve been visiting, it has grown into a destination for world travelers and foodies since SingleThread (one of few U.S. spots on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list) opened in 2016. Earning one, then two, and eventually three Michelin stars, Healdsburg has attracted upscale resorts, hotel remodels, pricey condos and a chic reputation.
Alternately, Sonoma’s larger town square has remained steady, even old-school, the past 24 years I’ve visited. Historically I’ve preferred dining in Healdsburg, but felt most drawn to Sonoma with its Spanish mission, Old West architecture and huge, leafy square. With Enclos opening December 2024, in a cozy Victorian cottage a half block off the square, the town is set to change.
I’ll say it now: Enclos could leap to two Michelin stars in no time. This destination-worthy, World’s 50 Best-caliber restaurant is one foodies will road-trip for. Chef Brian Limoges is already pushing boundaries, concurrent with his impressive pedigree: San Francisco two and three Michelins: Atelier Crenn, Quince, Saison. In true Wine Country fashion, the restaurant was founded by Mac and Leslie McQuown of Stone Edge Farm Vineyards & Winery, known for Bordeaux-style wines.
And it’s in our “backyard.” At $225 for an 11-course tasting menu, this is pricey but world-class dining in a town that only in recent years welcomed hip restaurants — ranging from delightful (Valley Swim Club, Folktable) to mixed quality (Valley Bar + Bottle Shop, Taub Family Outpost).
While some locals worry about Sonoma becoming as slick as Napa or Healdsburg, others welcome this destination restaurant in a town passed over on the fine dining circuit. Either way, Limgoes and his stellar team — which includes pros from stellar restaurants, like GM/beverage director Ian Cobb (formerly at SF’s Nisei and Harbor House Inn) and longtime industry vet and dining room manager Lawrence Nadeau, who heartwarmingly, impressively sketches a picture for each table.
Ambiance
Entering past 100-year-old olive trees, Enclos’ lounge/enclosed patio feels modern and lush, with sleek lawn furniture surrounded by greenery, though sadly it’s mostly reserved for Stone Edge wine club members with the occasional walk-in. Here, it’s à la carte snacks and drinks — perfect for those wanting a taste of Enclos without committing to the full menu.
For those lucky enough to secure a table in the intimate house, the experience is both transporting and grounded. Designed by Jiun Ho (who also designed SF’s Saison) in collaboration with Limoges, Enclos’ Victorian exterior belies its warm, modern design inside. Under an arched roof, cedar walls exude cabin-chic, while an extended dining room features black walls torched in the Japanese shou sugi ban method. Gorgeous custom tables are crafted from imperfect wood slabs, complementing reclaimed woods, Ho’s Sonoma farmland-inspired curtains and red Molteni stove in the open kitchen at the head of the room.
Culinary experience
While I enjoy fine dining, it must balance innovation with flavor. Limoges achieves this beautifully, as I experienced during my December visit. His New Hampshire roots shine in a clam “chowder” custard reminiscent of Japanese chawanmushi, brimming with geoduck and manila clams, pork stock, celery, fermented white asparagus and a dollop of Tsar Nicoulai caviar.
New England-meets-Sonoma inspirations extend to dramatic amuse-bouche: a spiny Maine lobster roll croustade with an emulsion of its brains and a venison tartare tartlet served on its antlers with fried lichen and bay laurel bud capers, inspired by deer Limoges regularly spots on his morning hikes around Sonoma County. These bites are as visually stunning as they are delicious.
Other thrilling bites include warm gougères, aromatic with orange blossom and pine, and a pumpkin doughnut laced with vadouvan spices, smoked maple and coffee oil. Marin oysters arrive with dill, rose geranium cream,and preserved cucumber, with Cobb’s bright pairing of 2020 Mixtura ‘Green Label’ Albarino from Portugal. Pacific amberjack crudo is colorfully contrasted with pluot consomme, green strawberries and fermented daikon.
Delights roll on, from a 60-day dry aged tuna belly presented like a steak, carved tableside and served over Luna koshihikari rice in a sabayon of brown butter accented with passion fruit, sea urchin and succulents. Recalling his Nisei days, Cobb nails sake pairings, like one of my faves, Mana 1751 True Vision Tokubetsu Junmai, which mimics and enhances the dish’s creamy, savory notes.
Hand-cut tajarin pasta noodles are Italy-perfect in a gouda burnt vanilla fonduta is marked by hazelnuts and Alba white truffles. Lucky me, catching them during their fleeting season. Masami Ranch Wagyu beef — with grilled lettuces and Nantes carrots — almost gets overshadowed by vivid, fermented sweet red habanada peppers.
Dessert
Pastry chef Sophie Hau delivers exquisite desserts, from fluffy kuri squash ricotta cheesecake with peanut praline and miso gel, to a honey chestnut ice cream sandwich served atop honeycomb from Stone Edge’s nearby farm. Among the mignardises (dessert bites), black apple sunchoke fudge and peanut chocolate bonbons left me wishing for a full box of each.
Enclos’ influences span France, Italy, Japan and New England, but ultimately celebrates NorCal’s world-class ingredients. Limoges and chef de cuisine Adam Gale’s sharp techniques and creative vision feel both whimsical and mature. Will this charming cottage restaurant transform Sonoma? It might. And I’m glad I was among the first to taste its bright potential.
// 139 E. Napa Street, Sonoma; www.enclos-sonoma.com
Virginia Miller is a San Francisco-based food & drink writer.
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