In The Bold Italic. More on Medium.

Consider a mollusk such as the escargot. It would be nothing but a garden pest without a megadose of garlic and butter. On the other hand, Dungeness, the crustacean indigenous to the West Coast, needs absolutely nothing — not even a pretty French name — to elevate it. The sweet, briny meat can actually improve your garlic and butter.
I have found no evidence that you could say the same for other types of crabs — blue, for instance.
“For many West Coast seafood lovers, including me,” writes Mark Bittman in his book Fish: The Complete Guide to Buying and…

What is it about (Indian) summer and seafood that go together so well? With San Francisco’s most summery months behind us, when streaks of sunshine even graced parts of the Financial District, we just can’t help but feel a strong craving for some of the finest crustaceans. So skip Sunday’s bottomless mimosas, and go bottomless with your seafood.
Celebrating the free-wheeling spirit of the Bay Area — one sentence at a time.